Tuesday, June 9, 2015

DIY Woven Baby Wrap Carrier



Hey guys! Sorry it's been such a hiatus; life got busy ya'll! between graduating nursing school, starting my first nursing job, learning to balance work with family, starting in a new unit (and therefore, more learning!), starting my BSN program online, and, oh yeah, finding out that Baby Numero Dos is on the way (!!), I've had to put this blog on the back burner.

Having said all that, I can't promise my posts here on out will be consistent in any way, but I'm here now, so let's celebrate that working mom/wife win. Today's post is all about making a woven baby wrap!  Let me start by saying that I did not make any of this up; it all came from the Babywearing DIY Advice and Support and the Dyed Baby Carriers groups on Facebook. Those ladies helped tremendously with all their resources!

Here is what you need to make a woven wrap:

- Sewing machine (or a LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE if you choose to hand sew). An expensive one is not at all necessary for this job. You're just going to be using it to hem and the appropriate fabric weights for this project don't require anything fancy.

- Needle and thread (duh)- pick an appropriate needle for the fabric you're using and get a new one if it's been awhile since you've changed your sewing machine needle. Trust me- you do not want a dull needle!! Also, if you're going to dye your wrap, a white cotton wrapped thread will do nicely. Most recommend Gutterman or Coats & Clark and both can be found at craft stores. I found Coats & Clark at Hobby Lobby and both at Joann's Fabrics).

-Pins (to... uh.. pin the fabric :-P A pin cushion would come in handy as well!)

- Fabric. More details below because this is kind of an integral part of the project :)

- Measuring tape, ruler, or t-square and washable pencil or marker. Just something you can use to measure your fabric with in order to figure out where you need to cut ;)

- Scissors. Preferably sharp ones ;-)

- Iron and ironing board. You think this is going to be one of those "necessary" items that is not actually necessary, don't you. Well you, my friend, would be wrong!

Some of the necessary supplies


If you're going to use Osnaburg fabric: you also will need -
-Large pot (that will not be used for food later)
-Soda ash (sodium carbonate- can be found in the pool section as pH plus. you can alternatively use Washing soda and just use a third more. Or you can bake Baking soda at 200 degrees for 2 or more hours to convert into soda ash. DO NOT use baking soda by itself. It will not be sufficient!)
-Dawn dish soap
- *When working with soda ash, use a mask and gloves! You don't want to breathe it in and it can be caustic to the skin! Always handle soda ash water/ soaked fabric with gloves.

Dawn and Soda Ash
Scouring Osnaburg... Note the muddy water- eww!

***Necessary equipment/supplies for dyeing your wrap will be in a follow up post! Stay tuned!!***

Okay, so I promised to talk about fabric. Well here is the deal. First and foremost, follow this rule: All fabric used for a woven baby wrap must be between 5.3oz and 7 oz per yard. Will every bolt have the fabric weight listed? Of course not. They want to keep you guessing. They want you to fall in love with that goregous linen/cotton blend on sale and then make you weep to realize that it is probably not thick enough but you'll never know because they don't tell you! (not that this happened to me... totally hypothetical...right...). For a woven wrap, you'll want something more on the 5.3 oz side of the spectrum. Make sure that when your hand is behind it, you can't see the outline clearly from the other side. For more information on figuring out if a fabric is thick enough, do a web search ;) I'll come back and add links if I have the time later.

Type of fabric: You want natural fabrics against your baby's sensitive skin. These fabrics are also more breathable than polyester and the like. (which you will definitely want with a hot baby pressed against you!).

- Thick gauze (Diaper gauze from VeryBaby.com was recommended to me- no affiliation) for a lightweight wrap that can be used in hot weather with younger babies. I've heard anything between under 20lbs to under 25lbs as being appropriate. If you decide to use gauze- PLEASE DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH to find out what is safe. Also know that gauze requires several passes to provide extra support since it is so lightweight. I have no experience with using gauze for a wrap so I can't help much there. I do know that it is possible to make a no-sew wrap with gauze. So... bonus for the non-sewing crowd!

- Linen is a great hot weather option, however it is costly! Fabric-store.com has nicely-priced linen and LISTS THE FABRIC WEIGHT! Hello! Win-win! (again, no affiliation). That was my plan, but I ended up buying a linen/cotton blend from another DIY'er on the DIY swap site for super cheap. The benefit of a linen/cotton blend is the softness and ease of care of cotton mixed with the super breath-ability of linen!

- Cotton is always an awesome option. Again, make sure it is thick enough. Quilter's cotton is not appropriate fabric to use for a woven wrap!! I know it's pretty and readily available, but its a no go. Sorry guys. You can use lightweight denim, tablecloths, osnaburg (NOT MUSLIN!), or cotton jersey (for newborn stretchy wraps only). You can use cotton blends that have 60% or more cotton with 40% or less synthetic fabric and still have a pretty, safe wrap. But if you're going to dye it or if you're worried about breathe-ability (heLLO Texas heat!), then stick with the natural stuff! I"m going to focus on the two types of cotton that I used: Osnaburg and tablecloth fabric.

        - Osnaburg is a utility cotton that is cheap, 100% cotton, and often the fabric of choice for DIYers, especially those who dye their wraps. It comes in one color; natural. It turns quite fluffy and soft with repeat use and breaking in, and is pretty lightweight/breathable. I found it at Walmart for $2.79/yard, but Joann's and Hobby Lobby also sell it (and if you use a coupon, it can come out to be the same price). Some stores (Walmart, apparently) sell the kind that is permanent press, which involves chemicals, and between that and the fact that the cotton hulls are still in the fabric means that SCOURING IS NECESSARY! Do not skip this step, even if you don't plan to dye. It takes an hour and its pretty easy.  You just mix 1/4- 1/3 cup soda ash and 1/2 tsp Dawn per gallon of water in a large pot and boil it. Then add your fabric (add enough water to cover your fabric completely. This was between 2.5 and 3 gallons for my wraps). Cover and let sit, agitating occasionally, for at least one hour in order to remove any chemicals from the fabric. Then, (LET SIT TO COOL), drain water, and throw in the washing machine for a quick wash with some more dawn or gentle detergent (one without optical brighteners). Done.

  Osnaburg

       - Tablecloths. Here is where you can get really thrifty! Try going to a local thrift store and look for a 100% cotton tablecloth with a good feel that you like and go ahead and buy that bad boy. The only drawbacks is that they only make tablecloths long enough for a shortie wrap (see the length section), and often the fiber content is not listed. However, they're pretty cheap at thrift stores and when you get home, you can use the burn test (Google it!) to determine if its cotton or synthetic.
    The other option is to buy a tablecloth. Apparently Target has some appropriate 100% cotton tablecloths. Or you can shell out some cash for a Mahogany brand tablecloth on Amazon, like I did. These tablecloths can be cut in two to form two long size 2-short size 3 wraps. The other half can be sold on a Babywearing DIY swap easily, as many people know, trust, and prefer this brand. Or you can have two of the same, I'm not going to judge :-)


My Mahogany Tree of Life tablecloth. It is jacquard, which means that the design is woven in and therefore each side is the mirror opposite of the other side :-)

Okay, now that you've decided what KIND of fabric to use, you need to know the length! Well the length is based on your size and personal preference. I made a size 5 with my Osnaburg, a size 4 with my linen/cotton blend and a long 2/short 3 with my mahogany tablecloth. I wear a size 4 pant/size small shirt, and have a long torso, so I used that comparison to figure out what similarly sized momma's were using. I also am brand new to wrapping and don't know what carries I prefer yet! Always better to err on the side of too much fabric, as it can always be cut and hemmed further down the road. But unless you're a sorcerer, that wrap isn't going to magically grow in length.
       Here, Here, and Here are few of many charts available to figuring out what length you will need. There are many others. Do your homework :)
**KEEP IN MIND that cotton shrinks!! My 5.5 yards of osnaburg shrank to 5 yards after my initial wash.
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Have you made it with me this far?? Excellent. You are a patient one! Or, maybe you skipped ahead. Either way, bravo! Here is how to make the wrap!

First, wash your fabric on hot once or twice and dry in dryer on hot once or twice. This will allow the fabric to shrink prior to cutting and hemming so that it doesn't inadvertently get shrunk later on!

You want your wrap to be 25-30 inches wide. 25-27 is appropriate for newborn to younger babies, while 27-30 is better for toddlers. I stuck to about 27 inches for all of mine. IRON your fabric so that you can get an accurate measurement! Also- DON"T FORGET THE HEM DEPTH ALLOWANCE! You need to hem this bad boy, so don't forget that you'll be losing 1/2-1 inch on each side, depending on how big of a hem you want. Personally, the 1/2" double fold hem (which takes up 1 inch per side) is easiest for me because it is a bigger area to work with. However, I ended up doing 1/4" double fold hem on the long border of my linen wrap and it worked out quite well for me :) Play with your fabric and decide what will work best. Keep in mind that a double fold hem is going to work best, especially with fabric that frays. Here is a link to a Youtube video showing you the basics. She folded over, ironed, and folded again. I folded over the entire width (1" for my 1/2" hem) and then folded under the extra 1/2" (See pictures below). Either way works and to be honest, now that I"ve seen her way, it seems easier ;) My way may make it easier to keep a straight edge. I just mimicked my grandmother in law, so do what works best for you!

If you're using the Osnaburg or Mahogany tablecloth, snip an inch or two where you want to cut, and then rip. That's right, take one side in each hand (or go ahead and have a buddy take the other side a la turkey bone style) and RIP that fabric. The reason for this is that, being woven, these fabrics will rip straighter than you will ever be able to cut. Sad truth there guys and gals. It is satisfying, quick, and easy. Nervewracking? Yes. But exhilarating and effective.

Ripping my beautiful tablecloth!

If you're using linen or a linen blend, lucky you! Linen, or at least my linen, ends up with wavy, stretched out sides where you ripped if you try it. So, to be safe, there is a better way. There are many ways to cut fabric straight but I'll let you know the most reliable way with woven fabrics: select a thread where you want to cut your fabric, pull it up with a pin, and pull it until the thread puckers the fabric. pull it until it breaks, grab another strand in the same line from farther down and repeat. That's probably not the best description, but see my pictures below and This video for a better explanation.

Pulling a thread

Look carefully for the line that was formed by pulling the thread

Once it is cut, back to the ironing board!! Cotton, and definitely linen, will unravel at the ends if you so much as give it the stink eye. So, with my linen (okay, I'm going to admit something really quick... My husband's saintly grandmother hemmed my osnaburg and Mahogany for me. That's right, I cheated. But I needed to see her do it first to get the confidence myself!), I used pinking shears to pink (give it zig zags) the edges to be hemmed in order to prevent fraying while I was working with it.
Cutting with Pinking shears

So, now is the time to decide if you're going to do a 1/2 or 1/4 hem (Actually, the time was before you cut the fabric, but whatever). As I stated above, there are two ways to do a double folded hem. I'll talk about how I did it, since that is what is in the pictures. See the video above for the other way. First, I folded over my full width, measured with a ruler, and pressed in place with an iron (1" for a 1/2" double fold hem and 1/2" for a 1/4" double fold hem). I did this down the length of what fit on my ironing board




Then, I went back and rolled the fabric underneath itself to form the appropriate length hem, pressed, and pinned in place. I continued with the next section and repeated the process until my entire fabric was pressed and hemmed. when pinning, keep in mind which direction you'll be sewing so that the pins are easy to remove (the heads will be toward you while you're at the machine).

Look at this image upside down. It might make more sense ;)

This is a 1/2" double folded hem

Pinned

Here is a completely pinned Osnaburg- ready to sew!


Note that if, like my linen wrap, you have a selvage edge, You don't have to hem that side! Isn't that fabulous!! Also, if you're using tablecloth, three sides should already be hemmed and you just have to complete the fourth side where you ripped it in half! yay!

Last step is to take it to the sewing machine. While sewing, you want to stay approximately 1/8" from the inside edge of the hem. A straight stitch with suffice here because it is not weight-bearing. Concentrate on your guide on your machine or on how the fabric is fed through the foot instead of the needle itself. If you are looking at the needle, your stitching will not be straight. Don't forget to backstitch a couple of stitches at the beginning and end of each side of the fabric in order to secure your stitches. Also, when switching to a new side, remember to keep the needle down into the fabric, pick up the foot, rotate, and put foot back down in order to keep your stitching continuous and to prevent having to start and stop. Also, be aware of where those pins are so you don't get poked ;)

I've got my line. Ready to go! Note my selvage edge that doesn't need to be hemmed :-)


Nana is a pro!

I'm a sewing newbie... It isn't perfect but I'm still proud!


And that's all folks! You, my friend, have a woven baby wrap! For a fraction of the price of what most cost. Many fabrics will need to be broken in to be nice and soft. Some suggestions are braiding and un-braiding, using water softener in your rinse cycle (White vinegar works well for this!), or drying on hot with tennis balls in your dryer. Whatever you do, do not play tug of war or any other kind of stretching maneuver to try and soften the wrap. You don't want to stress and strain those fibers in that direction and weaken the wrap!

Here are examples of my poor braiding... Takes some practice!

My slightly failed grad dye on the Osnaburg (more about that in a grad dye post!)

This is my Mahogany Tree of Life tablecloth! Isn't it pretty?? This will be featured in a tub dye tutorial!


Now, if you want to dye your project, like I did, that is going to be another long blog post ;) I grad dyed my Osnaburg (slightly failed because my mail carrier put my dye shipment in the wrong box and it sat in the hot Texas sun for a week... ruined my maroon!), I tub dyed my tablecloth, and I hand dyed a sunset palette on my linen blend... it's going to be exciting, so stay tuned!

Friday, June 27, 2014

Henna for Hair!!

That's right... I took the plunge and dyed my hair with Henna!! First, why did I do this? Because I love having red and auburn hair. Love love love. But I don't love the damage that traditional hair dyes do to my hair. In fact, I went back to my natural hair color in 2010 (by chopping off all my hair :-O ) because I couldn't take the frizz and damage. So, imagine my delight when I found out about using Body Art Quality Henna (Pure, high quality henna with no additives) instead. It strengthens and smooths your hair in addition to giving very permanent, very rich color. So, I decided to take the plunge. And I am very excited to share this journey!

First, I want to caution you all that if you are thinking about using Henna, ONLY use Body art quality henna. Do not use the "henna dyes" from the natural food store. Those compounds have added chemicals and are not pure henna. Some barely contain henna. Now some of you have probably heard that after using henna, you CANNOT use traditional dyes because it will melt your hair off. This is only true with the store bought "henna" dyes that contain metallic salts. Dangerous!! I will only ever buy my henna from Mehandi, where the henna is independently tested for purity. I got the Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna, which has the highest concentration of Lawson, (the dye molecule in henna) that Mehandi sells. 

I could give you a run down of the dos and donts with henna, and why its good for your hair, etc etc etc. Or you can read more about it from someone who is doing her PhD dissertation on it. Click here for a link to a free pdf ebook that tells you all you ever wanted to know about henna and using it to dye your hair. It has instructions for using henna as well as indigo, cassia, and alma. (Adding alma cools the tone of the color. adding cassia lightens the henna dye to make it more orangey. Cassia is also a colorless conditioner and strengthener. Adding indigo makes your hair brown. There's also a way to get your hair black using first henna then indigo. Just some other options!) *Note: Some people say that Henna straightens their hair/ relaxes curls. if you don't want this, amla is supposed to add texture and curl to your hair so adding some amla to your henna can combat its curl-relaxing properties.

Here is a link of a bunch of mixes that other people have used along with pictures of their results. 

Here is what I did!

200g Henna from Mehandi.com
Juice from 3 lemons (the acidity releases the dye)
Apple cider vinegar (has moisturizing effects while still acidic)
Cranberry juice (not as harsh as lemon juice but still acidic)
Clove powder (helps with the smell and possibly makes it dye darker)
Warm water
*lemon juice is drying, but releases the dye the best, which is why I used a combination of fluids

In a GLASS bowl (apparently you need to use ceramic or glass. I used glass because I knew it wouldn't stain) I mixed the henna powder with the lemon juice and cloves then started to add ACV and cran juice until it became mashed potato-like in consistency. Then I covered it with two layers of plastic wrap (one smooshed up against the henna to make a seal, another to cover the whole thing. Then I put the bowl at the top of my cabinet (out of sunlight) for about 15 hours (10-12 at least, I just had to wait until after kid was in daycare) 







First, I washed my hair twice with a clarifying shampoo and while it was still mostly wet,  I sectioned my hair into 7 sections using clips and wrapped an old towel around my shoulders, **securing it with a hair clip** (this is important! Having it slip off in the middle of this operation is no fun!) I got all my materials together (a bunch of nitrile gloves, plastic wrap, and a shower cap), and finishing making my henna mix. I warmed up some filtered water in the microwave and added it to the henna until it became greek yogurt-like in consistency. 



Now the fun part! I went outside and did this on my lawn to avoid staining anything in my house :) I just took handfuls of the henna mix and glooped it into my hair WHILE WEARING GLOVES!!! I went section by section, making sure I really got every strand of hair coated with the mix. I then massaged it in to my hair and scalp and really worked it through to make sure I didn't miss anything. This stuff is THICK, so doing it by sections is absolutely the best way to go. 

I piled my hair on the top of my head, then I switched gloves and covered my hair with plastic wrap, followed by the shower cap. Then I went inside, washed off any dye that got on my skin, and put a towel on my head, securing it with another hair clip and headband to keep the heat in and help the henna process. 




Rinsing (more tips below): For the first rinse, use cool water and your gloves. By this point it won't stain your skin anymore so don't worry about the gloves. After the first rinse, use conditioner to rinse until water is clear.  Next day you can shampoo and condition as normal

Tips: 
- I left the clips, towel, (really anything that got henna on it) outside on the grass. Once I got everything situated, cleaned up, and secured inside, I got out the hose and hosed off the towel and the clips and let them dry outside
- A baking soda paste will remove any stains on your skin! I am... clumsy. I've never been able to avoid making a mess in my life. So needless to say I had orangey spots on my arms, neck, ears, and forehead. But the baking soda paste took care of them all, no problem :)
- The longer you leave it on, the darker the color. You're supposed to leave it on for 2-4 hours, so I opted for like 4.5. Some people even leave it on overnight! 
- I have a bob hair cut that is a few inches above my shoulders with hair that is a tad thicker than normal. I used about half (or maybe a little more) of the 200g mix. 
- Any leftover mix can be frozen for up to one year, thawed, and used. I double freezer-bagged my extra mix then wrapped in aluminum foil before putting in the freezer. 
-Wash any utensils used right away! Henna dries and is hard to get off, washing utensils and bowls right away makes life a lot easier. And with 2-4 hours to kill, might as well! 
-Use a smaller towel or hand towel (just anything big enough to wrap around your head) for the final wrap. The henna plus everything else makes for a heavy head. A smaller towel will make it easier on you :)
- When you go to rinse, do it outside with a hose AND GLOVES! Then wrap a towel around your head and  head in to your shower. Once there, It took one good rinse and scrub with conditioner to get the henna out (or at least it felt like it was out), but the water was still coming out orange. So I did a second rinse, which did not change much but made my hair smoother :) So then I did a rinse with 2 cups water and 1/4 cup Apple cider vinegar. I also used cold water. After rinsing the ACV mix out liberally, I had clear water rinsing out of my hair, so either the liberal rinsing or the ACV worked :)
- When you first see your hair post henna you may freak out a little bit. Its going to be a bit bright, unless you had dark hair before using henna. But its okay, because it will deepen in color over the next 3 days, so don't judge your color until after that!
-THE SMELL: Those of us with first hand farm knowledge know the smell of Hay Silage. It is a very particular smell. And it is exactly what Henna smells like. Now, I love the smell of Hay Silage. But not on my hair for 3 days (which is how long the smell usually takes to wear off). The cloves didn't seem to help all that much, although I may not have added enough? Anyway, apparently  Ginger powder helps neutralize the smell really well. Mehandi.com sells Ginger soap to use, or you can add ginger powder to the henna mix. I will be making my own ginger shampoo once I go get some ginger powder!!


The Final results will be added later, so no one be scared by the freshly hennaed preview!! I'm a little scared myself :-) but it will darken! It WILL Darken. It will darken... it will darken.... Okay, I have to keep telling myself that and will update you once it does!





Saturday, June 14, 2014

Using Essential Oils Appropriately

Hey all! I was thinking about this last night and I decided to write a post about using essential oils (EOs) appropriately and safely. I touched on the subject when I talked about using EOs on kids in my mosquito repellant post. But I wanted to talk about it more in depth, particularly EOs during pregnancy because I have a bunch of friends who are pregnant or nursing right now. Keep in mind that these guidelines are mostly for use in aromatherapy (diluting essential oil in a carrier oil and using in massage for a variety of complaints). While Basil is not approved for use in pregnancy, eating basil is fine. Essential oils are highly concentrated oils of the plant they are derived from.

I've also included EOs that are great addition to cleaning products at the bottom.

So here are some lists of EOs that are safe to use on infants, children, pregnant women, and when lactating:
  Infants 0-2 months (Supposedly, the 19 items listed below are safe for children and babies of all ages. But Until I find more scientific support, I'm going to stick to these for the newborns)
  • Chamomile (Roman or German)
  • Dill
  • Lavender
  • Yarrow

Infants and children (remember to always dilute in a carrier oil!)
  • Bergamot 
  • Calendula
  • Cedarwood
  • Chamomile (Roman or German)
  • Citronella (use diluted only on children 6 months and older)
  • Cypress
  • Frankincense
  • Geranium
  • Ginger
  • Lavender
  • Lemon
  • Mandarin
  • Marjoram
  • Melaleuca-Tea Tre
  • Orange
  • Rose Otto
  • Rosemary
  • Rosewood
  • Sandalwoo
  • Thyme
  • Ylang Ylang
 ** DO NOT USE: Wintergreen or Eucalyptus on children younger than 2. For my two year old, I use Eucalyptus in my homemade vapor rub, I just diluted it a little.


AVOID these during Pregnancy, Labor, and Lactation:
  • Aniseed
  • Basil
  • Birch
  • Camphor
  • Cassia
  • Cedarwood (Thuja)
  • Cinnamon
  • Clary Sage
  • Clove
  • Hyssop
  • Juniper Berry
  • Mugwort
  • Parsley seed or leaf
  • Pennyroyal
  • Pine (dwarf)
  • Rosemary 
  • Rue
  • Sage
  • Tansy
  • Tarragon
  • Thuja (Cedarwood)
  • Thyme (red)
  • Tonka
  • Wintergreen
  • Wormwood
 EOs that are SAFE During 2nd and 3rd trimesters of Pregnancy:
  • Bergamot
  • Chamomile (German and Roman)
  • Cypress
  • Eucalyptus
  • Frankincense
  • Geranium
  • Ginger
  • Grapefruit
  • Lavender
  • Lemon
  • Mandarin
  • Marjoram Sweet
  • Neroli
  • Petitgrain
  • Rose Otto
  • Rosewood
  • Sandalwood
  • Sweet Orange
  • Tea Tree
  • Ylang Ylang 

- 1st trimester: It is your safest bet not to use any essential oils during your first trimester of pregnancy, as this is the most delicate time for your tiny baby. There are some that are used, however I do not feel comfortable suggesting some until I have done some in depth research that I do not have the time to do at the moment :) I would definitely do your research if that is something you want to do. Now, using essential oils in your face cream or deodorant are one thing, but certainly using essential oils as aromatherapy is what is mostly cautioned against in the first trimester.

Lactating women: (I've included herbs, not EOs, because I found this list on KellyMom, which is an evidence based website all about breastfeeding. It is awesome, if you ever need nursing advice)
  • Herbs that may be harmful to mom and/or baby 
    • Bladderwrack
    • Buckthorn
    • Chaparral
    • Coltsfoot
    • Dong Quai (Angelica Root)
    • Elecampane
    • Ephedra / Ma Huang
    • Ginseng
    • Indian Snakeroot
    • Kava-kava
    • Petasites root
    • Phen-fen
    • Rhubarb
    • Star anise
    • Tiratricol 
    • Uva Ursi
    • Wormwood
  •  Herbs that may reduce milk supply:
    • Black Walnut
    • Chickweed
    • Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum)
    • Lemon Balm
    • Oregano
    • Parsley
    • Peppermint
    • Menthol
    • Periwinkle
    • Sage
    • Sorrel
    • Spearmint
    • Thyme
    • Yarrow

And here are some essential oils with antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral properties that make them great for use in cleaning products:
  •  Lemon
  • Grapefruit
  • Eucalyptus 
  • Peppermint 
  • Tea tree
  •  Lavender
  • Rosemary


References:
EO use for children and babies
EO use in pregnancy- NAHA
Crunchy Betty- 21 things you should know about essential oils
IFPA Aromatherapy in Pregnancy guidelines
Fit pregnancy Essential Oils
Kelly mom herbs to avoid while breastfeeding

Friday, June 13, 2014

Homemade Facial and Body Scrubs

So to continue my earlier post about skincare, today I want to talk about something equally important as moisturizer... a scrub! Its all good and fine to have your organic Dr. Bronner's as a face wash and coconut/shea butter moisturizer, but you need to exfoliate! Exfoliation removes the top layer of dead skin cells that cause rough, dull skin. By doing this, it also helps all the goodness from your moisturizer sink in! And for those of us predisposed to acne, exfoliating helps cleansers get deeper and work better to remove acne-causing bacteria, dirt, etc. You should be using manual exfoliation (through the use of a scrub) once a week.

Another topic to discuss is salt vs. sugar scrub. Here and Here are some articles you can refer to.

Salt scrubs are more abrasive due to the jagged edges of the salt. On the plus side, salt, especially sea salt and Himalayan salt, provide trace minerals. However, because they are so harsh, they are better used on rougher areas of the body like elbows, feet, and callouses. Now, if you can find a fine grain sea salt, this may be a good facial scrub option for acne prone skin. Salt inhibits bacterial growth and absorbs oil very well.

Sugar Scrubs are more gentle on skin because sugar granules are round. For this reason, it is generally the go-to choice for facial scrubs. Sugar also contains glycolic acid, which is used in commercial peels. Here is more information regarding concerns over bacteria growth in sugar scrubs. Although, I usually make my facial scrubs in small batches immediately prior to using.

Recipe 1- Facial Sugar Scrub

1 Tbs Brown Sugar
2 tsp Honey
1/2 Tbs Olive Oil
2 tsp Lemon Juice

These amounts don't need to be precise. I just generally eye ball it until I have a smooth mixture. I use it on a clean face, and after applying and  gently massaging in, I let it sit for 10 minutes before washing off with warm water. This will make your skin feel incredibly smooth and soft! Absolutely amazing. I don't know where I got this recipe... I think it is a combination of recipes that I developed years and years ago. Each one of these ingredients offers amazing skin benefits and after using it, it is not hard to believe!

Recipe 2- Sugar Scrubs from Wellness Mama

These recipes are basically made with:
2 parts sugar (white or brown)
1 part oil (almond, coconut, olive, or jojoba are great options)

You can also add other ingredients such as a few drops of vitamin E or essential oils. It is important to note that if you're going to make a recipe to put in a jar for multiple uses, you need to make some substitutions. For example, using lemon essential oil instead of lemon juice. And adding some vitamin E for preservation.

Here are some great essential oils for your skin (adapted from here and here):
1. Bergamot (great for acne prone or oily skin)
2. Rosehip seed oil (great for sensitive or aging skin, it helps fade scars and fine lines, and rejuvenate skin. Contains Omega 3,6 and 9, vitamin C, lycopene and linoleic acid. It also moisturizes and boosts collagen production)
3. Clary Sage (reduces inflammation and helps balance your skin's natural oil production)
4. Geranium (helps fade scars and promotes cell growth)
5. Sandalwood (rejuvenating, calming, moisturizing, and fades scars and fine lines)
6. Eucalyptus (great for acne. Antimicrobial, calming, and fights inflammation)
7. Tea Tree (also great for acne, pretty much for the same reasons as eucalyptus. It is as effective as benzoyl peroxide without the side effects. Also has healing properties)
8. Carrot Seed (great for dry, damaged, or mature skin)
9. Lemongrass (detoxifying, regenerative, and minimizes pores)
10. Lavender (calming and antimicrobial; great for mature or acne prone skin)

Recipe 3: Salt Body Scrub

Again, the basic recipe is:
2 parts sea salt (This is a whole other post, but it is important to use sea salt for the benefit of the trace minerals. There are a ton of different kinds from Pink Himalayan salt to Red Hawaiian Sea Salt. Each kind has something to offer)
1 part oil (almond, coconut, olive, or jojoba are great options)

In addition to essential oils, you can add lemon zest, thyme leaves, or rosemary leaves to the scrub for added benefits. An example can be found here

Another idea is to use 2 parts sea salt with 1 part coconut oil and add lime essential oil or lime zest for a coconut lime scrub that smells amazing. I'm using this one currently :)

Anyway I hope this was coherent (Past my bedtime) and helpful! Let me know if ya'll have any other tips, ideas, or comments!




Monday, June 9, 2014

Mosquitoes a problem? Try this!

I don't know how it is by y'all, but the bugs are BAD this year! My husband (with the help of our fathers) built an awesome deck that has been such a wonderful blessing this past year. But with how bad the bugs have been, it has been a bit of a challenge to enjoy some family time outside. My two year old has, unfortunately, been getting eaten alive out there! The poor kid didn't even know what a bug bite was until this year. Now she freaks out when she sees a "buggie". Half the time she'll run to me screaming and the other half she plucks up some courage and goes running at the flying creature yelling "NO! NO BUGGIE, YOU DON'T GET ME!", after which she will come running up to me triumphantly, exclaiming "Momma, I got it! I got the buggie!!"

Now, unless you plan on running at the bugs screaming at them every time you see one (and most likely collapse in the process), I have some other ideas.

Here are my natural solutions for mosquitoes:

- mosquito repelling plants
- homemade mosquito repellent
- A fan! Simple, obvious, but it helps keep flying insects away. it also has the benefit of rustling the mosquito repelling plants and disseminating their scent a little better. 

Some other options that may or may not be effective against flying insects:
- penny in a ziplock bag of water (Click here for more info)
- Mosquito trap (Click here for more info)
- fan mosquito trap (Like this one from Skeeterbag)

The bag of water and mosquito trap are some of those "why not try and see what happens" solutions. Can't hurt. But I can't speak to their effectiveness because I've been trying other things that seem to help quite a bit. Here is more information regarding mosquito traps from Mosquito.org. The Skeeterbag seems like a pretty cool and promising solution that you can make at home, though I have yet to take that step.

Mosquito repelling plants

There are a lot of sites that can tell you what plants are supposed to keep the mosquitoes at bay. You can read more Here, Here, and Here. But I'm going to tell you what I use: Marigolds, sweet basil, purple basil, and rosemary. I have 6 long planters of marigolds lining my deck with two large planters full of the herbs between the deck chairs. Not only does it smell delicious, but I've noticed a lot less mosquitoes flying around. Just something to keep in mind :)



Homemade Mosquito repellant

This is a simple recipe and it is as effective as any commercial "all natural" mosquito repellent on the market. But a lot cheaper. So its worth the try, right? I used this recipe from Wellness Mama and customized it a bit. 

In an 8 oz spray bottle, put 4 oz of distilled water. Add 50 drops of essential oils. Then fill the rest of the way with witch hazel. As far as the essential oils go, here are ones that may be effective: Citronella, lemon, rosemary, lemongrass, eucalyptus, tee tree, and clove. Right now in my bottle I have 15 drops of citronella, 10 drops rosemary, 5 drops lemon, 5 drops eucalyptus, 5 drops tea tree, 5 drops lemongrass, and 5 drops clove. 

For children 2 and older, this is safe (albeit diluted a little more by using less essential oils). For children under 2, there needs to be a few changes made. First, I would use Thayer's lavender witch hazel (it is alcohol free. I wouldn't use the rose witch hazel because perfume attracts flying insects and rose is a pretty sweet smell). You could also use an alcohol free unscented witch hazel like this one or an unscented witch hazel infused with aloe vera like this one. Secondly, you need to be careful when using essential oils on kiddos. This excerpt from Crunchy Betty explains a little more about using essential oils on children: "Children have much thinner, more delicate skin than adults have, and tend to be very sensitive to the potency of essential oils. In fact, even if you do use essential oil in a recipe for children, only use half of the essential oil recommended in the recipe. That’s all they’ll need, anyway". Some baby (6 months of age and older) safe essential oils that can help repel mosquitoes include: Citronella, rosemary, thyme, geranium, and lemon. You can read more about baby safe essential oils here. Citronella is safe for children over the age of 6 months when diluted according the the National Pesticide Information Center. According to the general guideline to use half the amount of essential oils when making something for children, use 25 drops of the EOs listed above. For example: 10 drops citronella, 5 drops rosemary, 5 drops lemon. 

So now you've gotten rid of the mosquitoes and you have fly issues?? Here is a site that was recommended to me by a friend. She tried the "vodka in a bag", and reports that it worked well for her. I have yet to try any of these tips, but I thought I'd pass them along! Let me know if you tried them and what you think!

Do you have any other natural tips for mosquito control? Let me know!

Friday, June 6, 2014

BEST Glass cleaner EVER!!

I am very excited to share this recipe with you guys!! This one is amazing, I used it today for the first time and let me tell you... my glass has never been clearer! I need to take some pictures for you, because it is truly amazing!

¾ cup rubbing alcohol (or vodka)
¾ cup White Vinegar
3 cups very warm water
1 ½ Tbs corn starch

Using a funnel, fill the bottle with the Rubbing alcohol and vinegar, then add the corn starch. Warm the water in a pyrex in the microwave for 2 minutes, then add down the funnel to wash down the corn starch. Shake before each use

It is that easy! Definitely shake very well before each use to properly disseminate the corn starch. When I first sprayed it, I thought "OMG this was a mistake! It is so streaky and filmy!" But then kept wiping, and it faded... and I had a clear, streak free, amazingly clean mirror! Maybe my weird is showing, but this is incredibly exciting :) Lookout house windows... I'm coming for you!

Come back soon to check out my laundry detergent and dishwasher soap recipes with reviews!

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Best Homemade face cream!

First blog entry... hmm... What do I say? I'm creating this page because I have decided to use my time off after recently graduating from Nursing School by going DIY-natural-solutions-crazy. Seriously. Luckily my husband is out of town for the week or I would be getting strange looks every day. The only family members left to observe my new obsession are my two year old and my dogs. The dogs couldn't care less. They just sigh and find a quiet corner to curl up in. My two year old, however, has decided it is time to really step up in the role of Mommy's Little Helper. Unfortunately, some of these recipes are less than kid friendly so many have been created post-bedtime or during nap time. If you happen to also have a Little Helper at home, I will incorporate tips for what they can help with and what needs to be avoided :)

So without further adieu, here is my first recipe: Homemade face cream/face lotion (and basic skin care routine). I got this recipe from The Elliot Homestead. Usually I have to add or change recipes but let me tell you, this one is perfect. I suppose if you don't like the thickness you can change up the oils I little bit, but overall this cream has been a Godsend for me! I have combination skin with plenty of acne and acne scars. Since I started this routine a little over a month ago, my skin is a LOT clearer, a LOT smoother, and my scars are fading. It is magical. Truly. Here it is:

1 Tbs Coconut oil
3 Tbs Shea butter
2-3 drops essential oil. 
- Just mash the coconut oil and butter together using the back of a spoon and add the essential oil. Mix thoroughly and add to jar. It. is. that. simple. And wonderful. This one is pretty Little Helper friendly, I let my daughter help measure and mix :)

Essential oils: the original recipe calls for tea tree oil and this is how I made mine. And I love it. Tea tree oil has plenty of wonderful benefits for skin. It is antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, and great for treating acne. (you can read more about the benefits of tea tree oil here)

Great alternatives are lavender (calming, acne relief, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-fungal), lemongrass (detoxifying, regenerative, and smells amazing), and Rose (good for dry skin and acne). A great chart I found has a longer list :)

One thing to note when using this cream, is that it is very thick and when you first use it you will probably put on too much. But guess what? It absorbs amazingly well and is non-comedegenic (doesn't clog pores). Just use a tiny bit and smooth it out over your skin with your fingertips. Your skin will never be smoother or softer! I promise! If you do not like the thickness, you can switch out one of the Tbs of shea butter for sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, or another Tbs of coconut oil. 

I use this cream morning and night after cleansing my face with a diluted Dr. Bronner's Liquid Castille Soap solution (1 part Dr Bronner's to 3 parts water. I use the Peppermint for my face because it feels so refreshing. More on Dr. Bronner's later!). In the morning, I use Thayer's Rose Petal Witch Hazel as an astringent prior to applying the face cream. And at night, I have recently applying 2 drops of Rosehip seed oil to my face before putting on a small amount of the face cream (mostly because Rosehip seed oil smells awful and this face cream smells amazing). Click here for an article I found that gives the basics behind why Rosehip seed oil is amazing for your face. 

I will write another post with more information about my skin care (I haven't even gotten into my homemade scrubs and whipped body butter!) soon. I will also be posting my homemade recipes so check back soon!

Enjoy!